Broad Peak (8047m) Expedition

 Broad Peak

P7151402

Jhula Camp Khuburse 4000m Urdukas 4200m Concordia 4700m

Broad Peak is named for the enormous bulk of its peak. It has a strong presence in its surroundings. Arrive at Islamabad. Fly to Skardu or if flight cancelled drive by road (13-14 Hrs) drive up to Chilas. One day free at Skardu or complete road journey from Chilas. Next day drive by Jeeps to the road end at Askole, the last village in the valley. Our next camp is Paiyu, the last campsite before the beginning of the Baltoro Glacier. Then follows the Broad route, opposite side of the Baltoro, passing spectacular views of the Trango group, trekking for a further 6 days to reach the Base Camp.

The route involves climbing through a rock ditch to Camp-I (6000m) then we reach Camp-II (6400m). Our final camp will be at 7400m and from here we will try to summit. Climbing is extremely steep but the isolation of the setting will make this rewarding experience. The nature of climbing in this region has its own unique flavor.

First time successful attempt was done in 1957, when an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck scaled the mountain. It was not an easy ascent. When the party was ready to embrace the summit in the last leg of their expedition, they were forced to return due to storm. However in the same year on June 9, it was successfully summit by Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl. Broad Peak is located approximately five miles from K 2 along the Baltoro glacier. En route to base camp for Broad Peak, climbers and trekkers alike can visit the Trango group, Gasherbrum, K2, and Chogolisa. On a good day, both Chogolisa and K2 can be seen from the upper reaches as well as from base camp of this extraordinary mountain.

 

S#

City / Station name

Schedule

01

Islamabad

Arrive Islamabad, meet our guide with transport and transfer to hotel

for dinner and  overnight.

 

02

Islamabad

AM Welcome reception at Alpine Club of Pakistan.  

PM proceed for city tour including: Faisal Mosque, Visit Pakistan Monument and Museum at Shakar Parian, Rawal Lake also. In Rawalpindi   the famous places to look are Raja (King) Bazaar, Silver and Gold bazaars will allow us to catch traditional craftsmen at work.  

Drive back to hotel for dinner & overnight.

 

03

Islamabad–Skardu                                                 

           or

Islamabad-Chilas

 

Morning transfer to airport and fly to Skardu. 

In case flight does not operate, drive to Chilas. 

Chilas (490km, 12-13 Hrs) on Karakorum Highway, the most adventurous and thrilling. It connects Pakistan and China spreading over a distance of 1300km between Islamabad and Kashghar. Continue drive and finally meet the great Indus on Thakot Bridge. From there onward the road snails along the bank of the Indus.  

Lunch at Besham - is the largest town and commercial centre. Besham shops are famous for their China and international goods. Continue drive to Chilas - with many rocks carving and inscriptions and is standing under the shadow of world famous Nanga Parbat.  

Dinner & overnight at hotel.

 

04

Skardu

       or 

Chilas -Skardu

Full day free at Skardu is at a height of 7,500 feet. It is the trekker and mountain climbers' paradise.  

OR complete the road journey from Chilas to Skardu. (280km, 8-9 Hrs). Lunch on the way.  

Dinner & overnight at hotel.

 

05

Skardu

Final shopping day at Skardu.  

Lunch, dinner & Overnight at hotel.

 

06

Skardu - Askole

Drive by jeep from Skardu - Askole (3000 m, 6-7 Hrs) - is the last friendly village. Drive through Shigar valley and its stunning scenery. 

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps.

 

07

Askole - Jhola

Start to walk & will reach at Jhola - 3200m, 6-7 Hrs. Lunch at Korophon. The landscape is flat, somewhat sandy & hot sun will be beating down and there is very little shade. Lunch at Korophon.  

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps at Jhola.

 

08

Jhola - Paiyu

Trek to Paiyu ('Salt' in Balti) 3450m, 6-7 Hrs. This is an undulating walk, difficult at times, which the first views of dramatic mountains ahead. There is a rest stop by some tamarisk trees besides the stream flowing down from Paiyu Peak.  

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps.

 

09

Paiyu

Day at leisure for acclimatization.  

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps.

 

10

Paiyu - Khuburse

After breakfast trek to Khuburse, 3930m, 6-7 hrs. Gradual climb up Baltoro Glacier on the southern edge. Continue to the right climbing up on the glacier. Further 2-3 hours steady climb on a long diagonal to the other side & reach at campsite.

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps.

 

11

Khuburse - Urdukas

Trek to Urdukas – 4200m, 7-8 hours. Urdukas is a magnificent Campsite with spectacular views of Paiyu Peak, Choricho, Uli Biaho, The Trango Towers, Cathedral and Biale. 

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps.

 

12

Urdukas – Goro-II

Trek to Goro-II – 4500m, 5-6 hours. We will cover two porter stages. Baltoro shows a little more of the ice today and you are reminded that you are walking on one of the largest glaciers in the world. Masherbrum Peak welcomes you and Gasherbrum IV is now in front of you. Broad Peak is now also seen clearly.  

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps.

 

13

Goro-II  - Concordia

Trek to Concordia (4700m, 5-6 Hrs).  We pass Mustagh Tower then Broad Peak comes clearly into view. The Gasherbrum Range is straight ahead and we reach Concordia K2 finally reveals herself. All around are stunning peaks and you are standing in with one of the most amazing mountain panoramas on the planet. Concordia was named by Martin Conway in 1892, as it is the junction point of five glaciers.  

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps.

 

14

Concordia – Broad

Peak Base Camp

Broad Peak Base Camp (4900m), 6-8 hours slightly easy walk, with spectacular views and gigantic mountain panorama, including Mustagh Tower, Gasherbrum IV, Mitre Peak and the mighty K-2. Camp at Concordia named by Martin Conway after the place De La Concordia in Paris. Lunch at Concordia. You will be meeting some crevasses near Godwin Austin glacier.  

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps.

 

15-44

Climbing Period

30 days for acclimatization and climbing.
 

Base Camp      at 900m at Godwin Austin glacier
1st camp        at 5100m (Approx.) Only 3 Tents space.
2nd camp       at 6400m (Approx.) Only 3 Tents space.
3rd camp        at 6870m (Approx.)
4th camp        at 7400m  (Approx.)
Summit           at 8048m
 

 

45

Vigne Glacier  or

Ali Camp (4800m)

5-6 hours continue walk on Vigne Glacier, proving superb views of Chogolisa and Mitre Peak, A rare mountain panorama and camp just below pass. b 

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps.

 

 

46

Gondogoro_La –

Khuspang

Gondogoro_La (5680m) – Khuspang (4680m), 4-5 hours. Start very early in the morning for the strenuous and steep ascend to Gondogoro la (high pass), and another 3-4 hrs descend to the high camp (Khuspang) on the other side. Also BC for Gondogoro Peak. Continue trek to Dalzampa: (4300m) another 4-5 hours easy descends glacier Moraine to beautiful campsite of Dalzampa "field of flower". A climb to the lateral Moraine provides spectacular views of glacier and jagged spires.  

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps.

 

47

Shaieshcho - Hushe

Shaieshcho (3600m) - Hushe: (3300m), 4-5 hours walk on the lateral

moraine through wild roses, gooseberry cedar and Tamarisk bushes.

The Charksa valley joins the Gondogoro at Shaieshcho and the route

leads towards the base camp of K6 and K7. Another 4-5 hours the last  day of the trek follow the east bank of Hushe River on an easy path through the field and camp out side the village.  

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps.

 

48

Hushe-Skardu

Hushe - Skardu (2340m). By jeep drive to Skardu via Khaplu. The

second largest kingdom in the old Baltistan guarding the trade route to

Ladakh along Shyok River.  

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps.

 

49

Skardu - Islamabad

Fly to Islamabad OR in case flight does not operate drive to Chilas.

Upon arrival transfer to hotel.  

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps.

 

50

Islamabad

AM debriefing with Ministry of Tourism. PM free at Islamabad OR drive from Chilas to Islamabad.  

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps.

 

51

Islamabad

Transfer to airport for your onward flight.

 

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