Nanga Parbat Diamer Face (8125m) Expedition

 

Nangaparbat

 

 

 


Nanga Parbat

 Islamabad  Besham   Carving at Chilas Diamoroi

Nanga Parbat, in Sanskrit language for "Nude Mountain". According to the local old legend, Nanga Parbat is also called Diamer, which means abode of fairies. It is also called “The Killer Mountain”. Nanga Parbat is 9th highest peak in the world. The peak is 8,125 meters in height and is one of the most challenging mountains in the world to climb. Many mountaineers have lost their lives on way to the summit at Nanga Parbat. It was in 1953 that the Nanga Parbat was conquered by Herman Buhl.

Nanga Parbat is the second highest mountain of Pakistan and ninth highest in the world. In 1934 four German climbers and 6 porters perished in a storm. In 1937 disaster 18 Sherpas and 12 climbers were buried alive by avalanche that covered their camp.

First time in 1953 A.D, It was climbed by a joint Austrian – German Expedition. Hermann Buhl made the final ascent in a hard 41 hours solo ordeal without oxygen. Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner climbed the south face (Rupal Face) with his brother Gunther in 1970, descending by the Diamer face, where Gunther lost his life in an adventure.

S#

City / Station name

Schedule

01

Islamabad

Arrive Islamabad, meet our guide with transport and transfer to hotel

for overnight.

 

02

Islamabad

A.M briefing with Alpine Club of Pakistan.

PM proceed for city tour including: Faisal Mosque, Visit Pakistan Monument and Museum at Shakar Parian, Rawal Lake also. In Rawalpindi   the famous places to look are Raja (King) Bazaar, Silver and Gold bazaars will allow us to catch traditional craftsmen at work.  

Drive back to hotel for dinner & overnight.

 

03

Islamabad–Chilas

 

After early breakfast drive to Chilas. 

Chilas (490km, 12-13 Hrs) on Karakorum Highway, the most adventurous and thrilling. It connects Pakistan and China spreading over a distance of 1300km between Islamabad and Kashghar. Continue drive and finally meet the great Indus on Thakot Bridge. From there onward the road snails along the bank of the Indus.  

Lunch at Besham - is the largest town and commercial centre. Besham shops are famous for their China and international goods. Continue drive to Chilas - with many rocks carving and inscriptions and is standing under the shadow of world famous Nanga Parbat.  

Dinner & overnight at hotel.

 

04

Chilas - Diamoroi

From Chilas it takes about 30 minutes driving to Bunar Daas. Another 15 minutes drive will take us to the channel. From the channel we will trek up the Bunar River to Diamoroi Village, which will take about 4 – 6 hours.  

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps.

 

05

Diamoroi – Diamir Base Camp

Trek from Diamoroi to Kutagali (3500m), it is 5 hours steep climbing up along a riverside. The route goes through birch woods and high rocks. After lunch and rest at Kutagali - is shepherd's settlement, we will continue our climbing up the valley to the Diamir Glacier. After 2 to 3 hours we will reach Diamir Base Camp (4100 meters). The first British climber, A. F. Mummery disappeared on the Diamir Glacier in 1895. In 1970 Messner lost his brother Gunther descending through Diamir Face after their victorious climbing. It is the side of Nanga Parbat that most climbers want to attempt. To the left of this face is Kinshofer route named after the German climber Tony Kinshofer who along with his team climbed Nanga Parbat through this route for the first time in 1962. This was the second ascent of Nanga Parbat after Austrian climber Herman Bhul's successful ascent in 1953. On the right side there is Messner Route.  

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps.

 

 

 

06 - 40

 

35 days for acclimatization and climbing

 

41

B. Camp - Diamoroi

After breakfast return to Diamoroi

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps.

 

42

Diamoroi – Chilas

Morning trek back to Bunar and drive to Chilas.  

Upon arrival transfer to hotel.  

Lunch, dinner & overnight at the hotel.

 

43

Chilas – Islamabad

Early morning drive to Islamabad.

Lunch at Besham.  

Upon arrival transfer to hotel for dinner and overnight.

 

44

Islamabad

AM visit to Alpine Club of Pakistan for debriefing.  

After lunch free at Islamabad. Dinner & overnight at hotel.

 

45

Islamabad

Transfer to airport and fly out.

 

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