Spantik
/Golden Peak (7027m) Expedition

Spantik/Golden Peak

 Islamabad   Karakorum Highway Besham      Chilas Carving

Spantik Peak is known by various names of its beauty and splendor. It is also known by the name of Golden Peak and the local people call it Queen Mountain. It lies east of Diran and northeast of Malubiting. The first attempt to climb the peak was made in 1903 via Southeast ridge.  The same route was used by five German climbers in 1955 headed by Kramer. British climbers Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders climbed the Northwest golden pillar of Spantik in 1987.

There are two prominent ridges; South East and North West. The most commonly climbed line follows the south East Ridge, which was attempted by the Bullock Workman party in 1906.  The approach path to the beautiful campsites along the Chogolungma Glacier offers vistas of mountain scenery with innumerable high peaks.  

Although technically easy but Spantik is for mountaineers who have the experience of climbing as independent and at least have been on some smaller peaks of AD level. High altitude experience and an exorbitant physical condition as well as regular practice are needed to be on this expedition.

S#

City / Station name

Schedule

01

Islamabad

Arrive Islamabad, meet our guide with transport and transfer to hotel for overnight.

 

02

Islamabad

AM Welcome reception at Alpine Club of Pakistan.  

PM proceed for city tour including: Faisal Mosque, Visit Pakistan Monument and Museum at Shakar Parian, Rawal Lake also. In Rawalpindi   the famous places to look are Raja (King) Bazaar, Silver and Gold bazaars will allow us to catch traditional craftsmen at work.  

Drive back to hotel for dinner & overnight.

 

03

Islamabad–Skardu or   

Islamabad-Chilas

 

Fly Skardu, if flight does not operate, drive to Chilas. 

Chilas (490km, 12-13 Hrs) on Karakorum Highway, the most adventurous and thrilling. It connects Pakistan and China spreading over a distance of 1300km between Islamabad and Kashghar. Continue drive and finally meet the great Indus on Thakot Bridge. From there onward the road snails along the bank of the Indus.  

Lunch at Besham - is the largest town and commercial centre. Besham shops are famous for their China and international goods. Continue drive to Chilas - with many rocks carving and inscriptions and is standing under the shadow of world famous Nanga Parbat.  

Dinner & overnight at hotel.

 

04

Skardu or  Chilas –Skardu

Full day free at Skardu - is at a height of 7,500 feet. It is the trekker and mountain climbers' paradise. OR complete the road journey from Chilas to Skardu. (280km, 8-9 Hrs). Lunch on the way.  

Dinner & overnight at hotel.

 

05

Skardu - Arandu

After early breakfast drive to Arandu. The road runs through the sand dunes before climbing over a shoulder of mountain from where a majestic view of the entire Shigar Valley can be seen up to the junction of Braldu and Basha Rivers. The road then descends to the Shigar village (32km). From Shigar the jeep trek goes up the West Bank of the river to the beautiful village of Doko (20km) from where we trek to Arandu the last village.  

The trail goes up and down the hillside with beautiful view of cultivated fields and villages on the other side of the river. It is an easy walk up to Sesko beyond which it becomes stony and slippery due to landslides. After Bulcho the valley opens up and after trekking about (5hrs) from Doko we reach Arandu.  

Overnight at camp above the village at about 2950 meters.

 

06

Arandu-Bukhum

It takes about (8 hrs) to reach Bukhum, which is a summer settlement. The trail follows the Basha River up to the snout of the Chogo Lungma Glacier. After crossing the glacier follow the northern lateral moraine to Bukhum.  

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps.

 

07

Bukhum - Khurumal

 After breakfast trek to Khurumal (5-8 hrs). Watching the miracle views of the pyramid of Spantik, passing through Manchikera, which is a summer settlement we reach another summer settlement of Khurumal.  

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps.

 

08

Khurumal-Bolucho

Morning trek to Bolucho. It is relatively short stage, which takes (4 –5 hrs). Passing through the summer settlement of Gharincho and a small lake and enjoying the excellent views of Spantik and Laila Peaks we reach Bolucho, which is situated at the base of the Bolucho Glacier.  

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps at (3,900 meters) on a green ground with water.

 

 

09  -   23

15 days Bolucho to Base Camp (Acclimatization & Climbing Period) 

We will climb about (8km) up to the origin of Chogo Lungma Glacier to set up camp-I at 4550 meters. Camp 2 and Camp 3 are installed at mini summits of southeastern ridge with a view of 360º. The route from Camp-I up to (5100m) altitude consists of many ice pitches with many crevasses requiring 8 ropes fix line. Beyond this point up to camp 2 no rope is required. The climbing from camp 2 at (5500m) to Camp 3 at (6550m) comprises ice with some dangerous steep crevasses requiring 6 ropes to fix on this section.  

From Camp 3 to summit two ropes will be enough as safety rope. 

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps.

 

24

 Bolucho

Return to Bolucho.  

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps.

 

25

 Chogo Brangsa

Return to Chogo Brangsa

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps.

 

26

Arandu

Return to Arandu.  

Lunch, dinner & overnight in Camps.

 

27

Skardu

Drive by jeep to Skardu.  

Upon arrival transfer to hotel for Lunch, dinner and overnight.

 

28

Skardu - Islamabad

Fly to Islamabad

Or in case flight does not operate drive to Chilas.  

Upon arrival transfer to hotel. Lunch, dinner & overnight at hotel.

 

29

Islamabad

A.M Farewell meeting at Alpine Club of Pakistan.  

PM free at Islamabad  

Or drive from Chilas to Islamabad.  

Meals & overnight at hotel.

 

30

Islamabad

Transfer to airport for your onward flight.

 

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